Although the Little Giant Company suggests footings that are about 2 feet deep for your hammer,
many people don't go to such lengths and lead successful lives anyway.
You can go to http://www.littlegianthammer.com and find the plans for the proper footing if you want to.
Some people have simply mounted their hammers to railroad ties that are just sitting on the existing floor.
Others have bolted them down to the existing concrete. Using a resilient pad would be a good thing.
If the concrete does crack some day, then you'll have less jack hammering to do.
I have seen some hammers bolted to railroad ties that have been sunk into a dirt floor.
There's a very strong reinforced concrete floor under my 50 pound hammer. I simply cut out some 1/2" thick conveyor
belting to fit under the hammer and then glued the belting to the floor and to the hammer bottom with silicon sealer.
I did this in about 1988 and it hasn't gone anywhere yet.
To move the hammer around, I placed it onto three pieces of 1 1/2" water pipe and levered it into place with a pry bar. While it was sitting there, I tapped the four mounting holes 7/8"-9. Once the hammer was moved to its final resting place, I screwed 4 long bolts down through those tapped holes and tightened those bolts until it lifted the hammer enough to get the pipes out. Then it was easy to fit and glue the belting into place. Unscrewing the bolts carefully allowed me to let the hammer down onto the belting.
A good 2 hp motor should be sufficient.
-Just make sure that motor speed and pulley size is correct to get you about 325 strokes per minute.
-Mount the motor as low on the hammer as you can.
-If you are going to use Vee pulleys, a double belt
drive would be best.
-If you will be running it in an unheated shop. you will certainly need a capacitor start motor.
-A 220 volt motor would be best.